Exposure Triangle Calculator

Visualize and calculate the exposure triangle — aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. See how adjusting one setting affects the others while maintaining correct exposure.

EV (ISO 100)
13.0
Exposure value
EV at ISO
13.0
At ISO 100
Depth of Field
Moderate
f/8
Motion Freeze
Slight Motion
1/125
Noise Level
Virtually None
ISO 100
Settings
f/8 | 1/125 | ISO 100
Current combination

Creative Effect Balance

ShallowDepth of Field: 3/5Deep
BlurMotion Freeze: 3/5Frozen
NoisyImage Clarity: 5/5Clean

Exposure Triangle

Aperture f/8
Shutter 1/125
ISO 100

Equivalent Exposures

ApertureShutterISODOFMotion
f/11/8000ISO 100Ultra ShallowUltra Frozen
f/1.41/4000ISO 100Ultra ShallowUltra Frozen
f/21/2000ISO 100Ultra ShallowUltra Frozen
f/2.81/1000ISO 100ShallowFrozen
f/41/500ISO 100ShallowFrozen
f/5.61/250ISO 100ModerateSlight Motion
f/81/125ISO 100ModerateSlight Motion
f/111/60ISO 100DeepMotion Blur
f/161/30ISO 100DeepMotion Blur
f/221/15ISO 100Very DeepHeavy Blur
f/321/8ISO 100Very DeepHeavy Blur
Full & Third Stop Reference
Full Stop1/3-2/3-
f/1f/1.1f/1.2
f/1.4f/1.6f/1.8
f/2f/2.2f/2.5
f/2.8f/3.2f/3.5
f/4f/4.5f/5
f/5.6f/6.3f/7.1
f/8f/9f/10
f/11f/13f/14
f/16f/18f/20
f/22f/25f/29
Planning notes, formulas, and examples

About the Exposure Triangle Calculator

The Exposure Triangle Calculator shows the dynamic relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO in photography. Adjust one slider and see how the other two must change to maintain the same overall exposure, measured in stops. It is a fast way to reason about manual exposure without working through the math on the back of the camera.

The exposure triangle is the core concept in manual photography. Every correct exposure is a balance: opening the aperture lets in more light but reduces depth of field; slowing the shutter lets in more light but introduces motion blur; raising ISO brightens the image but adds noise. Mastering these trade-offs is what separates snapshots from intentional photographs.

This interactive tool lets you start with a "correct" exposure and then shift stops between the three variables. The visual triangle diagram shows the balance at a glance, and the creative effects panel explains what your current settings will produce - deep or shallow focus, frozen or blurred motion, clean or noisy image. It makes exposure tradeoffs visible before you dial them into the camera.

When This Page Helps

Use this calculator when you want to see how a stop change in one setting affects the others before you shoot. It is useful for learning manual exposure, teaching the triangle, and comparing creative tradeoffs between motion blur, depth of field, and noise when you are deciding between settings. That keeps the exposure decision tied to the effect you actually want in the final image.

How to Use the Inputs

  1. Start with a preset lighting scenario or enter your base exposure.
  2. Adjust any one of the three triangle parameters.
  3. See the stops shifted from the baseline exposure.
  4. View creative effects — depth of field, motion, and noise assessments.
  5. Use the stop-shift buttons to quickly move in full or half stops.
  6. Compare multiple exposure combinations at the same EV.
Formula used
Exposure in stops = log₂(f²) - log₂(t) - log₂(ISO/100). Shifting +1 stop in any parameter compensates -1 stop in another. Total EV remains constant when compensated correctly.

Example Calculation

Result: EV 12.6 (balanced exposure)

f/5.6 gives a moderate depth of field, 1/125 is fast enough to freeze mild motion, and ISO 200 keeps noise low. Shifting aperture to f/2.8 (2 stops brighter) requires changing shutter to 1/500 (2 stops less light) to compensate.

Tips & Best Practices

  • Start with aperture priority for most situations — let the camera calculate shutter speed.
  • Use 1/focal-length as minimum shutter speed to avoid hand-shake blur (e.g., 1/200s for 200mm).
  • Modern cameras are surprisingly good at ISO 1600-3200 — don't fear high ISO too much.
  • For video, shutter speed should be 1/(2× frame rate): 1/50 for 24fps, 1/60 for 30fps.
  • Learn to think in stops — it becomes second nature and makes exposure intuitive.

The Three Sides of Light Control

Aperture is measured in f-stops. Each full f-stop (f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16) halves the amount of light entering the lens. Remember: larger f-number = smaller opening = less light. This is counterintuitive but consistent.

Shutter speed doubles or halves in full stops: 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8. Each step doubles the exposure time and doubles the light captured.

ISO follows powers of two: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200. Each doubling amplifies the signal and the noise equally.

Creative Control Through the Triangle

The triangle isn't just about getting "correct" brightness — it's about creative control. A street photographer might shoot at f/8, 1/250, ISO 400 for sharp zone focus. A portrait photographer might choose f/1.4, 1/2000, ISO 100 for dreamy bokeh background. A night photographer might use f/2.8, 30s, ISO 3200 for Milky Way shots. Same brightness, completely different visual outcomes.

Metering and Compensation

Cameras measure exposure through metering systems (evaluative, center-weighted, spot). The meter suggests settings for "middle gray" (18% reflectance). Override with exposure compensation when shooting bright scenes (snow, white walls) or dark scenes (black cats, concerts) — the meter tries to make everything average gray.

Sources & Methodology

Last updated:

Frequently Asked Questions

  • A stop is a doubling or halving of light. Going from f/4 to f/5.6 is one stop less light. Going from 1/125s to 1/60s is one stop more light. Each stop doubles or halves exposure.